Thursday, April 7, 2016

INK REMOVAL 101A


This is a brief video on how-to finesse the ink off the screen frame for an on-press ink change. And, it offers the easiest way to remove the ink at the conclusion of printing using PWG122 PressWash.


FIRST UP. HOW-TO REMOVE INK FROM A SCREEN ON-PRESS:

Start with PWG122 Press Wash that has been designed to rapidly flash off the screen so that you can quickly and easily make an ON-PRESS ink change.

Next, lift the printer arm holding the screen frame that you want to make the color change on so that you are looking at the underside of the screen frame.

Using a paper or cloth towel, squirt some press wash onto the cloth. Working from the underside of the screen, wipe the targeted spot until ink is removed.

Then, lift the screen and if it still seems to need a little more work, use cloth to carefully finish wiping from the squeegee side.

Before you start to print, spray the platen with RBA2, an Aerosol Adhesive Spray Mist to help ensure that the t-shirt will remain stable on the platen. For fleece and heavier fabrics, a good choice is RBA3 Adhesive Web. 

Now, flood the screen and continue printing.

Once you have completed printing the project, card off the ink and proceed to the washout booth to clean the ink off the screen. The next part of the video will take place at the RhinoCleanWashout Booth for an Ink Removal demo using SWG14C-citrus-scented Screen Wash.

Squirt the screen wash onto the screen and begin scrubbing. Scrub on both sides. Very quickly, the ink will begin to emulsify.

With a pressure washer, like the amazing RS1500A, rinse the screen on both sides. To get rid of any residue, apply a bit more SWG145C, scrub and rinse. If you prefer a soy-based product, choose SWG305.

EQUIPMENT AND PRODUCTS SUMMARY:
The manual, textile printer used in the demo is a SureCure 5-4/2 combo Conveyor Dryer/Textile Screen Printer from RhinoTech with a 110V.

The RhinoClean Washout Booth is made of Polypro with an aluminum stand.

Soy-based, SWG305 Screen Wash and SWG145C  are excellent options for the final screen wash.

On-Press Wash: PWG122. And, PWG125 is a multi-purpose Press Wash that will also work on card stock, U.V. and Plastisol inks.

NEXT UP!
Stay tuned for the next in the series that is How-To REMOVE A STENCIL.

Many thanks for watching. If you need help, want a consult or have questions, please contact us at 651-686-5027 or info@rhinotechinc.com

 Free Shipping opportunities are available with purchase of $50 and over when delivered in the contiguous U.S.A. And, we ship world-wide.


 



Saturday, March 26, 2016

How to Blockout a Screen Frame with the Expert RhinoTech Method




Part 3 in this RhinoTech series involves the steps on how to Blockout a Screen Frame. 

This how-to video follows previous demos: Coating Screens 101A and Exposing and Developing Screens 101A.


TOOLS OF THE TRADE

The necessary tools include the screen frame that we previously exposed and developed, RB203 Thick Blockout that is water-soluble and a perfect choice to use on coarser mesh counts and a little squeegee. We also use the BL1620 Exposure Unit w/backlight.

NOTE: For finer mesh counts, the choice is RB202 that is a thinner product. For an absolutely permanent blockout, the choice is RB201.

STEPS TO BLOCKING OUT A SCREEN FRAME

Puddle blockout in the corner of the frame. With the trusty yellow squeegee, spread blockout around the edge of the frame. This is important to ensure that all pinholes from dust are covered.

NOTE: RB203 is water-soluble making it easy to wash off the screen. And, the backlight on the Exposure System makes it easy to see where light is potentially seeping through, so you can cover those areas/spots with the Blockout.

Work carefully, though, to make sure that you don’t get any of the blockout on the image.

Let the screen dry.

DOUBLE SECURITY

When the screen is dry, use regular packing tape to tape out around the inside edge of the backside (squeegee side) of the frame. This will ensure that when you print, no ink will get squished between the mesh and the frame.
And, that’s it!

RECAP:

RB203 – when you need a thick blockout for coarser mesh counts.
RB202 – when you need a thin blockout for finer mesh counts
RB201 – when you want a permanent blockout.


As always, thanks for taking the time to view this demo. If you have questions, please contact us directly at 651-686-5027 x 4 or info@rhinotechinc.com. 


Free Shipping opportunities are available with on-line purchases of $50 or more when delivered in the contiguous U.S.A. 
And, we ship world-wide.
   
 

How to Expose and Develop Screens 101A


How to EXPOSE AND DEVELOP A SCREEN FRAME 101A.

This video is Part 2 in our series following Coating Screens 101A. 

Today, we’re using a BL1620 ExposureUnit w/UV Black lights. It has a simple on/off switch. You just have to add a timer system; we use the timer on our phones.

EXPOSING THE SCREEN FRAME
The first step is to have your artwork ready. As you can see, we printed our artwork onto RhinoJet Film PositiveMaterial using an Epson 1430. We used this water-proof clear film material because it provides a very dense film positive helping to ensure that no light will penetrate the blacked out area.

Next, position the film positive material onto the Exposure System.

Then, position the previously coated screen frame over the film positive (the frame that we coated in the video Coating Screens 101A).

Add a pressure plate to ensure good contact. We use one that is made of melamine board with foam (foam side down) to ensure that the film is tight against the screen. We also add a few gallons of RhinoMite adhesive to secure it even more.

Turn Exposure System on.

We know that it will take a 4-minute exposure, because of previous test results. So…always test with a film positive that has been pre-made for you using different filters. This will help you narrow down variables due to type of Exposure System and type of emulsion you’re using.

Once the screen is exposed, retrieve the screen frame and get ready to begin the Developing Process.

THE DEVELOPING PROCESS

The first step in the DEVELOPING PROCESS is to move to the RhinoClean Washout Booth. Place screen in the booth and wet screen on both sides.

Next, set Pressure Washer to wide fan with low pressure (easily done with the RS 1500A) and with a smooth motion, continue to wash frame – notice we’re working on the non-squeegee side of frame. Be sure to flip frame and continue washing the other side.

Watch the design appear.

And, that’s it. You’ve just observed how simple it is to Expose and Develop a Screen Frame using the RhinoTech method.

Now, let the screen dry before you begin the Blocking Out process. And, because there are a few ways to do that, please watch for Part 3 in the series, Blocking out a Screen Frame 101A.

Thanks for watching the easiest way to Expose and Develop a screen frame from RhinoTech. We look forward to working with you.
 
Free Shipping opportunities are available with on-line purchases of $50 or more when delivered in the contiguous U.S.A. And, we ship world-wide.


 



HOW TO COAT A SCREEN PRINTING FRAME - 101A.

YOU ASKED. THIS IS THE VIDEO DEMO.

THESE ARE THE TOOLS YOU NEED TO SIMPLIFY THE SCREEN COATING PROCESS


Add sensitizer to emulsion and then let stand so bubbles will disappear.

3 - Scoop Coater that has a rounded and sharp side and an angle piece that enables you to tip and rock and shear in one smooth motion.

I want to point out that, generally, you’ll be working with this in a light safe environment. For demo purposes, I’m going to work a bit quickly and then move to a dark light area for screen drying.

STEPS TO COATING A SCREEN FRAME
To begin, pour emulsion into scoop coater without over-filling and then begin to coat the non-squeegee side of the screen frame.

The reason that it’s important to start on the non-squeegee side of the frame is because you want to have the build-up on the bottom or non-squeegee side of the frame.

Move scoop coater straight up the frame and then shear off at the top. REPEAT.

Next, turn screen around and coat the squeegee side. REPEAT.

Place frame in a horizontal position in a light safe drying rack to dry.

Once dry, the next phase will be to expose the screen. And, that will be Part 2 in the series, EXPOSING AND DEVELOPING SCREENS 101A.

Really appreciate you watching our demo. If you need more info and have questions, please contact us at 651-686-5027 x 4 OR info@rhinotechinc.com. We look forward to working with you.
Free Shipping opportunities are available with on-line purchases of $50 or more when delivered in the contiguous U.S.A. And, we ship world-wide.

Thursday, February 18, 2016



YOU JUST HAVE TO CHECK OUT THIS WHOPPER OF A DISCOUNT EVENT AND TAKE ADVANTAGE OF AN OPPORTUNITY TO FINALLY GET THE MOST PREMIERE, ENJOYABLE SCREEN FRAME CLEANING PRODUCTS, EVER!

THE SECOND EPIC EVENT:

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QUESTIONS? 888.717.4466 or 651-686-5027 x 4.

Wednesday, February 10, 2016

Thursday, January 7, 2016





Regarding the question on whether or not cotton garments need to be pretreated before digitally transferring a print with SingleJet™ Heat Transfer Paper, the answer is a firm NO.

Unlike the Direct-to Garment (DTG) process, you DO NOT HAVE TO PRE-TREAT using any of our SingleJet™ papers that include SingleJet II™ and SingleJet Opaque™ (for use with DARK apparel). The results are designs with bright color when printed on white and light color fabrics and vivid white and color on DARK garments.

With SingleJet™ and SingleJet II™, you’re also able to print a phot, flat color design text, block graphics or spot colors. Personalize puzzle blanks, light color mouse pads, t-shirts, baseball hats, coasters, bags and more. Used with the recommended Epson 1430 wide format inkjet printer, customizations is quick and almost effortless.
Transfer Instructions for apparel decoration using a SingleJet™ and a high quality Heat Press like the Swingman 20 from RhinoTech :


1. Using a heat press, pre-press the shirt for about 10 seconds to remove wrinkles and moisture from the garment.
2. Print a MIRROR IMAGE with the recommended Epson 1430 and, when dried, cut around the image leaving a 1/8" boarder.
3. Place image on garment; press the image at 350°F for 16 - 20 seconds using moderate to heavy pressure.
4. PAPER WILL BE HOT.  This is a HOT PEEL process, so carefully and in one smooth motion, roll the transfer paper off beginning at the corner.
5. After peeling, cover shirt and image w/parchment paper (release paper).
6. Heat press again for 5 – 10 seconds. Remove parchment paper immediately. This will insure a superior bond to garment.   

Simply follow these steps to get the absolute best results with printing a Photo with SingleJet™ :
1. In Print Options on your computer, select Photo Paper as your paper type; turn on Mirror Image option.
2. Set the printing mode to photograph, if necessary.
3. Print in 360dpi or 720dpi mode (do not print higher than 720dpi to avoid over saturation and ink bleed).
4. After printing, transfer with the Inkjet printer, allow transfer to dry thoroughly from 15 to 30 minutes. The color may appear to be dull, but will intensify when applied to your garment.

When printing a flat color design text, block graphics or spot colors SingleJet™ Heat Transfer Paper:
1. In Print Options, select Plain Paper as paper type and turn on the Mirror Image option.
2. Set the printing mode to graphics or text style of printing.
3. Print in 360dpi or 720dpi mode (do not print at higher than 720dpi to avoid over saturation and ink bleed).
4. After printing transfer with the Inkjet printer, allow transfer to dry thoroughly from 15 to 30 minutes. The color may appear to be dull, but will intensify when applied to your garment. 

Transfer Instructions when using an Iron with SingleJet™ Heat Transfer Paper:
1. After the printed image has dried, cut the image out leaving a 1/8" border.
2. Place item to be printed onto a hard surface - not an ironing board. *Use hottest temperature and do not add water. For a few seconds, iron the area of the fabric where you have positioned the image.
3. Place the design/image face down onto the ironed fabric. Iron back of image for a few seconds; let cool for 10 seconds.
4. Next, iron the perimeter of the image; then iron the top center of the image moving slowly to the bottom center of the image.
5. Re-iron the image VERY SLOWLY using medium to high pressure. Continue ironing until you have completely traced the sides of the image; about 90 seconds for an
8" x 10" image surface.
6. Quickly iron the entire image, heating all of the transfer paper again for approximately 10-13 seconds.
4. Immediately, start at a corner and smoothly begin to Hot Peel the transfer working carefully with this very hot paper. All SingleJet™ papers are available in 81/2” x 11” and 11” x 17”.

Click HERE to see the new generation of SingleJet™, SingleJet II™ and SingleJet™ Opaque (for transfers to DARK apparel) heat transfer papers.

Order on-line and receive Free Shipping with a minimum $50 purchase when delivered in the contiguous U.S.A. And, we do ship world-wide.

Please call us directly at 651-686-5027 x 4 if we can help you further. 
                               
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RhinoTech | 2955 Lone Oak Circle | # 2 | Eagan | MN | 55121
info@rhinotechinc.com  |   651-686-5027   | ​ 888.717.4466